Green and Brown Anole
Anolis spp

Before you read this Care Sheet remember that it is meant only as a general guide to the requirements and maintenance of this species. You should seek out good information regarding the specifics of their husbandry.

GENERAL INFORMATION
Green Anoles are found from the Carolinas to Florida and across to Texas. Green Anoles are not always green as the name would have you think. Their ability to change color is a function of thermoregulation. When they are cold and trying to heat up they will take on a darker color. Once warm, Anoles will assume a lighter color. For this reason Anoles are often called American Chameleons. They are, however, from a completely different group of lizards than the true old world chameleons. Anoles are not only great beginning lizard for kids but also make wonderful companions to a community setup. Anoles will go well with a variety of other similarly sized animals. A good starting point might be Long Tailed Grass Lizards, Green Tree Frogs and Grey Tree Frogs. Choose animals that are of similar size and have the same forest set up requirements.

ENCLOSURE
Keep in well-ventilated aquarium. A 10 gallon aquarium with a screen top will work fine for up to 5 Green Anoles. But of course the larger the better. Anoles can be kept alone, or in groups consisting of 1 male and several females. Males kept together without adequate space are prone to fighting. Anoles can climb the glass walls of enclosures, so be sure the screen top is firmly in place. Include lots of climbing places. You can decorate with real or artificial plants.

SUBSTRATE
Green Anoles can be kept well on slightly dampened sphagnum moss or bark chippings. Lightly dampened peat moss may also be used to simulate the woodland floor.

TEMPERATURE & HUMIDITY
Daytime temperatures should range between 24 - 28°C. A basking area should be provided with temperatures between 29 - 90°F. Nighttime temperatures should be allowed to drop as low as, but not lower than 32°C. The humidity level should be 50 - 70%. These animals will also require a light misting 2 - 3 times a day.

HEATING
Reptiles need to be able to regulate their body temperature, so a temperature range must be provided. Under tank heaters (UTH) are recommended. Leave it on 24 hours a day. UTH's take a few hours to reach their optimal temperature. For easy heat control, use a thermostat with the U.T.H's. They will also slightly help to increase the air temperature if needed. Always use at least one thermometer in all reptile & amphibian enclosures, although two thermometers are optimal. Place one thermometer on the cooler side, and one on the warmer side.

LIGHTING
The a specialist reptile lamp with high UVB and UVA output is an excellent choice for lighting. The UVB is helpful but not essential, and the UVA will help with your new friend's mental well being. All reptiles and amphibians need a photo period (light cycle). A plug in timer (for your lights only, do not use a timer for your heating devices) works well to develop a regular photo period of 8 - 10 hours of light, 14 - 16 hours of darkness. Reptiles and amphibians cannot see the red light spectrum, so a red bulb is ideal for nighttime viewing of your Anoles.

FOOD & WATER
Feed medium size crickets daily. Dust food lightly with a proprietary mineral supplement formulated for anoles every other feeding. Always feed your crickets assorted fruits and vegetables or a commercially prepared cricket diet 12 - 24 hours before feeding the crickets to your pets. Mist 2 - 3 times a day. Anoles like to drink from leaves, but a shallow water bowl should also be used. Use a REPTILE DRIP-WATERING SYSTEM arranged so that the water will drip down the leaves and into the water bowl.